We arrived at the end of a long day on Scenic Byway 12, phones out at Larb Hollow Overlook long enough to find dinner options and hatch a plan. Leaving Allison and Warren in the car, I walked in alone to see what was possible. The hostess took one look at me and immediately knew we’d had a long travel day, but said she could fit us in if we were done with the table by 6:15. I agreed before she finished the sentence.

The grilled asparagus with warm smoked dijon vinaigrette is worth fighting over, acidic and rich, surprises in every bite and disappears quickly. Allison got the filet and shared the smallest possible bite. I understood. I got the bison pot pie, puff pastry topped comfort in a screaming hot crock, the asparagus cutting through the richness in a way that shouldn’t work but does. Warren demolished a half order of the trout.

We made it out by 6:14. On the way to the car, a side-by-side rolled up, elevated lift, a cowboy and his date dressed for the occasion. That’s Torrey.

Recommendation: The filet, asparagus, and bison pot pie.

Capitol Burger was on the list before we arrived, it showed up in enough research that you make a point of fitting it in. It lined up for our last big day, coming off the Cassidy Arch trail, which is exactly when a cheeseburger makes the most sense.

The truck sits near the general store in town. We found a spot out front and walked over to figure out the order: a plain cheeseburger for Warren, bacon cheeseburger for Allison, mushroom and blue cheese for me. Warren negotiated the cheese/sauce ratio down to his satisfaction and ate the whole thing. Allison called hers an upscale Big Mac, which is exactly right. Mine was a smashburger-style mess of mushrooms and bleu cheese that I finished well before anyone else at the table. The fries were crispy and salty, which is all you want after a trail.

Recommendation: The mushroom + bleu burger and bacon cheeseburger.

Easter Sunday in Torrey means most things are closed. Hungry and coming off the Hickman Bridge, we pulled into the Chak Balam parking lot with a handful of other vehicles and sat, unclear if they were open on the holiday and watching for any sign of life. Eventually someone tried the door. It opened, and we all piled in.

Standard Mexican menu, small dining room. I ordered the trio of enchiladas verde (chicken, barbacoa, and pork), green sauce fresh and spicy. The barbacoa filling was not normally something I order in enchiladas, but it was the best of the three by a distance. Sometimes you’re rewarded for taking a chance. Allison got the carne asada, simple, well executed and paired with excellent tortillas. Warren tried his first mexican coke, liked it for approximately one sip, and declared no bueno. He was fine with his crunchy tacos which were mostly lightly seasoned ground beef.

Recommendation: The barbacoa, enchiladas verde, and a mexican coke. Extra tortillas.

We came into Broken Spur after a six hour excursion on Loop the Fold, one of Capitol Reef’s scenic back country road tours that circles the park. We were exhausted and craving steak, and Broken Spur, a no-frills steakhouse at the resort on the edge of town, was the right answer.

Service was great throughout and the best part of our visit. The biscuits were excellent. The potato bites were baby redskins, hollowed out and served hot. We finished both before the entrees arrived. Allison got the sirloin, I got the ribeye with chicken green chili tamales on the side. The flavor on both steaks delivered. The texture was chewy enough that we’d try a different entree next time. The tamales were good and I saved them for breakfast before Cassidy Arch the next morning. Wise choice. Exactly the fuel that hike needed.

Recommendation: The potato bites and the green chili tamales.

Dark Sky Coffee is a walk-up/drive through window in a small red-roofed house on the east end of Main Street. Named for Torrey’s exceptional night skies, it’s the kind of place that earns repeat visits on a multi-day trip.

We had a Loop the Fold day ahead of us and needed real coffee. Fortunately, our schedule lined up with the open days of Dark Sky Coffee. We slow rolled the morning enough to stop when it opened — an iced mocha, a cappuccino, and a breakfast burrito between us. The iced mocha deliciously balanced chocolate and espresso without either overwhelming the other. The cappuccino was hot and properly made. The breakfast burrito was excellent: potatoes, sausage, egg, and cheese, hearty enough to carry you through a morning in the Grand Wash. Add the hot sauce.

Recommendation: An iced mocha and breakfast burrito.

Kiva Coffeehouse is not in Torrey. It’s about an hour east in Escalante, on the Highway 12 drive between Bryce and Capitol Reef, and it earns its own mention because it’s the kind of stop you plan your drive around with the promise of a unique setting and great coffee.

Given our adventures at Bryce earlier in the day and our exploration along Utah 12, we weren’t sure we were going to make it prior to the 4pm closing time. We pulled in at 3:45, a full 15 minutes to spare. The kitchen closes at 3, so we didn’t get a chance to sample any food, but the coffee and drinks were worth the rush. Iced lattes with enough espresso to cut through the milk. A pomegranate lemonade that drinks like a sweet tart dissolved in a glass of ice. The staff was kind enough to humor Warren’s dislike of hot drinks by making him an iced version of their hot chocolate. He still talks about it.

Recommendation: An iced latte after noon, or a cappuccino in the morning. The pomegranate lemonade.

Gifford House shows up in every Capitol Reef guide for a reason. Pie, cinnamon rolls, and ice cream out of a historic farmhouse inside the park, with picnic tables and orchard views. It’s not in Torrey, it’s inside Capitol Reef on Highway 24, but no dining guide about this area is complete without it.

We arrived after Hickman Bridge, which is exactly the right time to rationalize pie as a post-hike snack. We were too late for the cinnamon rolls and Allison was quite disappointed by this. She and Warren consoled themselves with ice cream and traded bites across the table while I worked through two small pies – don’t judge – tart cherry and a strawberry rhubarb. Both leaned traditional, more fruit than sugar, good crust-to-filling ratio. The tart cherry was the standout. The strawberry rhubarb could’ve used a touch more sugar.

Recommendation: Tart cherry pie (or whatever flavor of pie you like). Ice cream.